PIETRA DI SAPONE – A Rural Italian Recipe – Traditional Farmhouse Soap

Before supermarkets, detergents, and plastic bottles, farm households had to make do with what was on hand. Cleanliness was still important, but it was achieved with simple materials, practical knowledge, and a lot of experience.

In rural Italy, farmers and shepherds relied on a basic homemade soap often referred to as pietra di sapone — literally “soap stone”. It was a hard, plain soap made from animal fat and alkali, produced in large batches and used for everything from washing clothes to scrubbing floors and tools.

This was working soap, not luxury soap.

Soap Making on the Farm

Soap making was usually done once or twice a year, often after pig slaughtering, when large quantities of lard were available. Nothing was wasted. Fat that was unsuitable for eating became soap, and the end product was stored and used until the next batch was made.

There were many local variations, most passed on orally. The recipe recorded below, of which I made a 5 Kg batch today, was already in use by around 1870, and likely much earlier. It is one of the simplest and most economical versions.

The Traditional Base Recipe (Historical Record)

Ingredients

  • Pork lard – 5 litres
  • Water – 10 litres
  • Flour – 1 kg – (Use Whole Wheaa Flour for some texture and scrubbing effect – optional)
  • Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) – 1 kg

Basic Equipment

  • Large plastic or wooden tub
  • Wooden or plastic stirring utensil
  • Protective gloves

Traditional Method (As Practised Historically)

The lard was first rendered until fully melted and clear. Water was placed in a large tub and the flour mixed in to form a smooth liquid with no lumps. The melted fat was then added and stirred until evenly combined.

Only at this stage was the caustic soda introduced. The mixture was stirred continuously until it thickened noticeably — what old soap makers recognised by eye and feel rather than measurement.

When ready, the soap was left undisturbed for several days to set.

Once firm enough, the large block was turned out, cut into smaller pieces, and left to dry and harden in a well-ventilated place. Fresh soap was soft, almost butter-like, and became harder and more durable with time. Only useable after about 40 days.

What This Soap Was Used For

This was a strong, alkaline soap, intended mainly for :

  • Washing heavy work clothes
  • Cleaning floors and walls
  • Scrubbing tools, containers, and equipment

It was not designed for comfort or fragrance. Effectiveness mattered more than gentleness. Some families later added herbs or scents, but the basic soap remained plain and functional.

I also made some Extra Virgin Olive Oil Soaps today, adding coffee grind and mint leaves for a scrubbing effect and flavour

Why Flour Was Used

The addition of flour may seem odd today, but it made sense at the time. Flour helped thicken and stabilise the mixture in the absence of scales, thermometers, or chemical calculations. Soap making relied on observation, experience, and repetition rather than precision.

A Lesson in Self-Sufficiency

Recipes like this are a reminder of how farm households once operated. Everyday necessities were made at home, using local resources and practical knowledge built up over generations.

This old farmhouse soap is more than a cleaning product — it is a small example of rural independence, thrift, and ingenuity. Understanding how it was made helps us appreciate how closely farming life was tied to basic chemistry and hands-on skill.

FEEDING YOUR BEES OVER WINTER

Feeding your bees some sugar water is almost a standard in Dunedin if you want your hives to survive and be strong and producing honey over the next season

Commercially bee feeders are available in single, double or triple units. I am using the triple units as it requires less intervention and stress on the bees having to open the hives less frequently for refuelling.

When I first bought these sugar feeders I did a test run on the outside of the hive, as these feeders normally are located inside the brooder box. I did however notice that quite a number of bees drowned in the sugar feeder in spite of the fact that there is a “ladder” on the inside of the cone for the bees to get out. Back Yard Farmer created an internal additional ladder with some off cut wire netting and a piece of twig. Mission accomplished when almost no bees drowned any more.

HAPPY BEES !!!!

UPSIDE DOWN BANANA BOXES

INSIDE TE HATCHERY

For many years I used plastic brooders to grow my small quails in and it worked very well. The problem came having to clean these all the time and since I replace about 10 of these in my hatchery every week, it became a very laborious and unpleasant task. A water blaster was the only way to clean them properly which created a lot of effluent as well. Alternatives were investigated and I settled on Banana Boxes. The advantage is that there is no cleaning as I just replace the used box with a new and clean one. The downside was that I had 10 manure and bedding “soiled” banana boxes every week. I solved this by flattening the boxes and turn them upside down in my garden with the manure and bedding underneath and the box on top. This makes a wonderful source of nutrients fertilising the soil and also an excellent weed mat.


The results are excellent from a plant growth point of view and I have also not seen that many earthworms in all my live. I normally leave the boxes, well watered, for a couple of months before drilling a 40 mm hole about 200 mm deep through the box into the ground, fill it with good quality soil and plant the new plants or seeds it the hole. One needs to pack the boxes down in the beginning (I use old bricks) until the plants are stronger, otherwise the boxes move too much and the hole is not over the seed any more, or the small plants get damaged. After about 1 month the boxes have disintegrated and the bricks can be removed. The plants are now strong enough, weed free and well fertilised.

Ready to plant an Artichoke Forrest

One of the many Tomato beds ready for planting
Brassicas are very happy
Garlic is going very well
Boxes are well disintegrated after 6 weeks

Abalone con Riso allo Zafferano

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A dear friend gave us four abalones. We have not often cooked this before but we knew that we could not mess this up. Many videos were watched, shockingly some recipes included so many additives that one could replace the abalone with just about anything and not notice. Mrs BYF’s simple effort was absolutely delicious so here is the recipe:

Firstly, lock all the doors so no one can come in and share. Then tenderise the abalone by beating it with as mallet or, go the dramatic African way by tying it in a tea towel and smashing it repeatedly on the back step. Both ways worked beautifully.

Recipe

Heat a large cast iron skillet

4 Abalones tenderised and sliced in 2cm thick slices

150g Butter

2 Cloves garlic chopped

Handful of parsley

No salt was needed, so don’t be tempted lest the abalone goes tough

Melt the butter in the hot pan and add the garlic, then the abalone. Stir the abalone turning it over a few times and fry for about 2 minutes. The result was lovely soft abalone that tasted of the sea. We like raw fish so if some of it was a bit underdone we were happy. We ate it sprinkled with parsley, on saffron rice and with a fresh salad from the garden.

We opened a bottle (or two) of wonderful Prosecco for the occasion. After lunch we had to have a nap.

Salami and Sausage making time

There is no better way to spend a Sunday, with a few good friends, to convert the pig and stag that crossed our way a few days earlier, into some delicious products.

The temperature in my “Meat Curing Room” is ideal at 8 – 10 C at this time of the year, but I would have preferred the humidity to be less than 60% to allow for proper curing and drying – hopefully it will get a bit less humid over the next few days.