Revolutionising Quail Nutrition—The Natural Way – 5

At Back Yard Farmer, we believe that the best solutions often come from the garden, not a laboratory. We are thrilled to announce our new 5-Herb Botanical Blend, a premium upgrade to our quail feed that brings “clean-green” bio-security directly to your coop.

By blending Organic New Zealand grown Salvia ‘Amistad’, Rosemary, Mint, Lemon Verbena, and Bay Leaves, we’ve created a powerhouse formula that acts as a natural shield against pests while boosting bird vitality.

Why Now?

We’ve spent the last several seasons observing the challenges our New Zealand keepers face—from high humidity causing grain pests to the relentless pressure of mites and flies in our summer months. We didn’t want to just offer another chemical fix. We waited until we could perfect a ratio that is safe, highly effective, and stabilized with Salmon Oil and Lypoforte for maximum absorption. It’s the result of months of testing to ensure your quail get the very best of nature’s pharmacy.

A Functional Shield, Not a Filler

Our organic botanical blend fits right into the growing body of research on phytogenic feed additives. These plant-based supports improve digestion, immunity, and antioxidant levels without the need for antibiotics. By including these five specific organic herbs, we help your birds fight off mites, lice, and internal stress naturally.

The Fly-Zone Defender – Lemon Verbena

Headline: The Final Piece – Zesty Bio-Security with Lemon Verbena

We wrap up our “Super-Herb” series with the bright, aromatic power of Organic Lemon Verbena.

Why it’s the perfect finish:

  • Fly & Gnat Defence: Packed with citral, Lemon Verbena is a specialist at masking the scents that attract flies and gnats to the coop. By including it in the feed and dust bath, you’re creating an invisible aromatic barrier.
  • Stress Reduction: The calming scent and phytochemical profile help reduce environmental stress, keeping your layers calm and productive.

The Back Yard Farmer Difference: By bonding these five organic herbs to our feed with Salmon Oil and Lypoforte, we’ve created a dust-free, nutrient-dense, and bio-secure meal that represents the best of New Zealand farming.

Ready to upgrade your flock? Our new 5-Herb Botanical Blend is available now. Experience the natural difference in every egg!

Optimizing Hatchery Biosecurity: The Science Behind Our New Environmental Controls

To ensure the highest standards of avian health and chick vitality, we have upgraded our hatchery with an advanced, dual-action mechanical ventilation and air-filtration system. Poultry environments – particularly during the brooding phase – naturally generate high volumes of microscopic feather dander, dried droppings, and feed dust. Left unmanaged, these airborne particulates act as physical vectors, carrying and spreading opportunistic pathogens, mold spores, and fungi throughout the space. By introducing a centralized, high-efficiency “scrubber” system at table height, we actively intercept and trap these respirable dust particles right at the source, preventing them from settling or irritating the birds’ sensitive respiratory tracts. Simultaneously, our calibrated, variable-speed extraction system maintains optimal cross-flow ventilation. This continuous exchange of air prevents the dangerous accumulation of metabolic byproducts like carbon dioxide and ammonia gas – both of which can severely suppress chick immune systems and damage respiratory cilia. By systematically drawing fresh oxygen in and exhausting stale, humid air out, we dramatically lower the ambient bacterial load and moisture levels required for fungal growth. The result is a mathematically optimized microclimate that suppresses pathogen transmission, eliminates ammonia odors, and provides our quail with the pristine air quality essential for robust early development.

QUAILS and LIGHTING PROGRAM

To maximise egg production in Coturnix coturnix Quails from 5 weeks of age through peak and sustained lay, lighting must be managed as a structured, consistent program – not left to chance

From 5 weeks of age, just prior to sexual maturity (first eggs typically appear at 6–8 weeks), gradually increase total day length to 15 – 16 hours per day. Extend light slowly, no more than 60 minutes per week, using timer-controlled supplemental lighting. Maintain moderate, even intensity at bird level (approximately 10 – 15 lux) – excessively bright lighting can trigger stress and aggression

Combine natural daylight with artificial lighting strategically. As natural day length changes seasonally, artificial lighting must be adjusted so total daily exposure stay on 16 hours. During transitional periods, light may need to be added both before sunrise and after sunset to “cap” the day length at a consistent 15 – 16 hours without overshooting as daylight expands.

Key principles for maximum production:

  • Maintain a consistent 15 – 16 hours total light (natural + artificial)
  • Never exceed 16 hours per day
  • Provide at least 8 hours of uninterrupted darkness for proper rest and hormonal balance
  • Never reduce day length once birds are in production, as this can trigger a drop in lay or induce molt
  • Adjust lighting gradually as seasons change
  • Use reliable timers to prevent sudden fluctuations

A stable, well-managed photoperiod stimulates ovarian development, supports early peak production, and sustains annual outputs of approximately 200–300 eggs per hen. Consistency in timing, intensity, and seasonal adjustment is the foundation of long-term, high-level performance

Alternatively, if you prefer, you can leave your quails to follow the natural seasons, but expect seasonal drops in laying during shorter winter days.

UPSIDE DOWN BANANA BOXES

INSIDE TE HATCHERY

For many years I used plastic brooders to grow my small quails in and it worked very well. The problem came having to clean these all the time and since I replace about 10 of these in my hatchery every week, it became a very laborious and unpleasant task. A water blaster was the only way to clean them properly which created a lot of effluent as well. Alternatives were investigated and I settled on Banana Boxes. The advantage is that there is no cleaning as I just replace the used box with a new and clean one. The downside was that I had 10 manure and bedding “soiled” banana boxes every week. I solved this by flattening the boxes and turn them upside down in my garden with the manure and bedding underneath and the box on top. This makes a wonderful source of nutrients fertilising the soil and also an excellent weed mat.


The results are excellent from a plant growth point of view and I have also not seen that many earthworms in all my live. I normally leave the boxes, well watered, for a couple of months before drilling a 40 mm hole about 200 mm deep through the box into the ground, fill it with good quality soil and plant the new plants or seeds it the hole. One needs to pack the boxes down in the beginning (I use old bricks) until the plants are stronger, otherwise the boxes move too much and the hole is not over the seed any more, or the small plants get damaged. After about 1 month the boxes have disintegrated and the bricks can be removed. The plants are now strong enough, weed free and well fertilised.

Ready to plant an Artichoke Forrest

One of the many Tomato beds ready for planting
Brassicas are very happy
Garlic is going very well
Boxes are well disintegrated after 6 weeks

IFRARED HEATED BROODERS

About a year ago, I introduced Remote Control Automated Infrared Heating in my quail brooder houses with excellent results. Mortality is down from already low values and growth rates are up, which partially may be as result of the selection pressure I constantly apply towards growth rates. Best of all is that my electricity usage is down as the heating is applied only when and how much is required all the time, compared to the previous system where heating was applied all the time and only adjusted manually every few days, neither were there any adjustments for ambient temperature fluctuations.

I have seven of these units – basically one for every age group as I hatch a batch every week and move them outside when 7 weeks old.