Tag Archives: dinner

Riso Venere (Black Rice) con Gamberi alla Liguria

Liguria-Style Venere Black Rice with Prawns

As Lombardia (my region) does not have any sea access, we always look up to Luguria when it comes to seafood recipes. In Liguria, seafood is treated with great respect : simple preparation, excellent olive oil, fresh herbs, and bright citrus. This version reflects the coastal cooking of the Italian Riviera — clean, aromatic, and elegant, with no heavy sauces.

Ingredients (Serves 4)

  • 300 g Riso Venere (black rice)
  • 400 g raw prawns (preferably whole, shell-on for best flavour)
  • 3 tbsp high-quality Ligurian extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 clove garlic, lightly crushed
  • ½ glass dry white wine
  • Zest of 1 lemon
  • A few thin strips of lemon peel (no white pith)
  • Small handful fresh parsley, finely chopped
  • Small sprig fresh thyme or marjoram (optional but traditional)
  • Sea salt, to taste

Method

  1. Cook the rice
    Boil the Venere rice in abundant salted water according to package instructions (20–40 minutes). Drain well and spread on a tray briefly to steam off excess moisture.
  2. Prepare the prawns
    Peel and devein the prawns, keeping tails if desired. If using whole prawns, reserve shells to briefly flavour the oil.
  3. Infuse the oil
    Warm the olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat with the crushed garlic and (optionally) the prawn shells. Cook gently for 1–2 minutes to release flavour, then remove shells and garlic before they brown.
  4. Cook the prawns
    Increase heat to high, add the prawns, and sauté briefly — about 1–2 minutes per side.
  5. Deglaze
    Add the white wine and allow it to evaporate quickly, concentrating the flavour.
  6. Combine with rice
    Add the drained rice to the pan and toss gently so it absorbs the seafood juices and oil.
  7. Finish in the Ligurian style
    Remove from heat and add:
    • Lemon zest
    • Lemon peel strips
    • Chopped parsley
    • Thyme or marjoram (if using)
      Adjust salt and drizzle with a final thread of excellent olive oil.

To Serve

Serve warm — not hot — as is typical of Ligurian seafood rice dishes. The aroma of citrus, herbs, and the natural perfume of Venere rice should remain delicate and fresh.

PIETRA DI SAPONE – A Rural Italian Recipe – Traditional Farmhouse Soap

Before supermarkets, detergents, and plastic bottles, farm households had to make do with what was on hand. Cleanliness was still important, but it was achieved with simple materials, practical knowledge, and a lot of experience.

In rural Italy, farmers and shepherds relied on a basic homemade soap often referred to as pietra di sapone — literally “soap stone”. It was a hard, plain soap made from animal fat and alkali, produced in large batches and used for everything from washing clothes to scrubbing floors and tools.

This was working soap, not luxury soap.

Soap Making on the Farm

Soap making was usually done once or twice a year, often after pig slaughtering, when large quantities of lard were available. Nothing was wasted. Fat that was unsuitable for eating became soap, and the end product was stored and used until the next batch was made.

There were many local variations, most passed on orally. The recipe recorded below, of which I made a 5 Kg batch today, was already in use by around 1870, and likely much earlier. It is one of the simplest and most economical versions.

The Traditional Base Recipe (Historical Record)

Ingredients

  • Pork lard – 5 litres
  • Water – 10 litres
  • Flour – 1 kg – (Use Whole Wheaa Flour for some texture and scrubbing effect – optional)
  • Caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) – 1 kg

Basic Equipment

  • Large plastic or wooden tub
  • Wooden or plastic stirring utensil
  • Protective gloves

Traditional Method (As Practised Historically)

The lard was first rendered until fully melted and clear. Water was placed in a large tub and the flour mixed in to form a smooth liquid with no lumps. The melted fat was then added and stirred until evenly combined.

Only at this stage was the caustic soda introduced. The mixture was stirred continuously until it thickened noticeably — what old soap makers recognised by eye and feel rather than measurement.

When ready, the soap was left undisturbed for several days to set.

Once firm enough, the large block was turned out, cut into smaller pieces, and left to dry and harden in a well-ventilated place. Fresh soap was soft, almost butter-like, and became harder and more durable with time. Only useable after about 40 days.

What This Soap Was Used For

This was a strong, alkaline soap, intended mainly for :

  • Washing heavy work clothes
  • Cleaning floors and walls
  • Scrubbing tools, containers, and equipment

It was not designed for comfort or fragrance. Effectiveness mattered more than gentleness. Some families later added herbs or scents, but the basic soap remained plain and functional.

I also made some Extra Virgin Olive Oil Soaps today, adding coffee grind and mint leaves for a scrubbing effect and flavour

Why Flour Was Used

The addition of flour may seem odd today, but it made sense at the time. Flour helped thicken and stabilise the mixture in the absence of scales, thermometers, or chemical calculations. Soap making relied on observation, experience, and repetition rather than precision.

A Lesson in Self-Sufficiency

Recipes like this are a reminder of how farm households once operated. Everyday necessities were made at home, using local resources and practical knowledge built up over generations.

This old farmhouse soap is more than a cleaning product — it is a small example of rural independence, thrift, and ingenuity. Understanding how it was made helps us appreciate how closely farming life was tied to basic chemistry and hands-on skill.

FORMAGGIO di CONTADINI – Italian Farmhouse Cheese

Traditional Peasant Cheese

Formaggio di Contadini is a rustic farmhouse cheese inspired by traditional Italian country dairies. Made with rich Jersey milk, it develops a smooth, supple texture and a gently savoury flavour that improves with natural ageing.

Ingredients

  • Fresh Full-cream Jersey cow’s milk (Not pasteurised) – 6 Liters
  • Thermophilic starter culture – ¼ teaspoon
  • Goat lipase – 2 g
  • Liquid rennet (RENCO) – 7 ml
  • Non-iodised salt

Method

1. Warm and Culture the Milk

Gently heat the milk to 32 °C.
Sprinkle the starter culture over the surface, allow it to rehydrate for 2 minutes, then stir well

Cover and keep at 32 °C for 60 – 90 minutes to allow the milk to ripen and develop flavour

2. Add Lipase

Dissolve 2g goat lipase in a small amount of milk and let it stand for 10 – 15 minutes
Stir thoroughly into the milk

3. Add Rennet

Add 7 ml liquid rennet, stirring gently in an up-and-down motion for 1 minute.
Cover and hold at 32 °C for 45 – 60 minutes, or until a clean break is achieved

4. Cut the Curd

Cut the curd into 6 mm cubes

When cutting to 6mm, use a long knife or harp for uniform cubes. Stir very gently during cooking to avoid matting too early — this preserves moisture for a more supple final texture.


Allow the curds to rest for 5 minutes to release whey

5. Cook the Curds

Slowly heat the curds and whey in a double boiler from 32 °C to 38 °C over about 30 minutes, stirring gently to prevent the curds from sticking together

Once the target temperature is reached, cover and hold at 38 °C for a further 10 – 15 minutes

6. Drain the Curds

Pour the curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander.
Gather the cloth and hang to drain for 1 – 2 hours, keeping the curds warm and out of drafts.

7. Mould and Press

Pack the drained curds firmly into a cheesecloth-lined mould

Press in stages :

  • 5 kg pressure for 10 minutes
  • Remove, turn, rewrap, then press at 10 kg for 10 hours
  • Remove, turn again, rewrap, then press at 20 kg for 4 – 6 hours

8. Brining

Prepare an 18% brine (180 g salt per litre of water)

Submerge the cheese in the brine for 40 – 60 minutes per kilogram of cheese, turning halfway through. Ensure brine is chilled (10°C) and cheese is fully submerged

Remove and allow the surface to dry

9. Natural Rind Drying

Place the cheese on a wooden board at room temperature
Air-dry for 2–3 days, turning several times daily, until the rind feels dry and firm to the touch

10. Natural Ageing

Move the cheese to an ageing space at 10–12 °C with 85–90% humidity

  • Turn the cheese daily for the first week, then 2 – 3x weekly
  • If surface mould develops, wipe lightly with brine. Ensure brine is chilled (10°C) and cheese is fully submerged

Age for at least 4 weeks. Longer ageing will produce a deeper, more complex flavour. Try 8–12 weeks for noticeably deeper, nuttier, more “gently savory” flavor as proteins/lipids break down.

For a smoother rind, rub with olive oil after drying and once the rind is fully set (5–7 days), or brush with lard / herbs for traditional rustic look. If waxing, do so after 2–3 weeks when rind is set

Ragù di Quaglia (Quail Pasta Sauce)

Every so often the freezer fills up with mature, processed quails, and the best solution is to turn them into something truly special : a slow-cooked ragù. On this occasion, I pulled 40 frozen quails from the freezer and spent most of Sunday afternoon transforming them into a rich, deeply flavoured sauce that can be enjoyed for months to come.

This is a labour of love, but one that rewards you generously. This is not just a sauce – it’s a celebration of North Italian tradition, where time, patience, and respect for every ingredient create something unforgettable. Cooked slowly, bottled carefully, and served with fresh pasta, it brings the warmth of our kitchen straight to your table.

Ingredients

  • 40 deboned quails
  • 2 kg finely chopped onions (50% brown, 50% red)
  • 250 g extra virgin olive oil
  • 250 g butter
  • 200 g finely chopped celery
  • 200 g finely chopped carrot
  • 50 g salt (adjust to taste)
  • 50 g freshly ground black pepper (adjust to taste)
  • 250 ml full-cream milk
  • 500 ml white wine
  • 500 ml stock (quail stock preferred)
  • 500 g tomato purée
  • 1 kg tinned tomato passata
  • 100 g finely chopped garlic
  • 50 g finely chopped fresh hot chilli (optional)
  • 5 g freshly grated nutmeg
  • A handful of hand-shredded fresh basil
  • 2 Cups Grated Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese

Method

In a very large, heavy-based pot (large enough to hold all the ingredients), add the olive oil, butter, and chopped onions. Sauté gently over medium heat until the onions are soft and translucent, but not browned.

Add the celery and carrot and cook gently for a further 5 minutes.

Add the quail meat, season with salt and pepper, and cook until lightly browned. Stir in the tomato purée and cook for a few minutes to deepen the flavour.

Pour in the white wine and cook until it has completely evaporated. Add a portion of the stock and stir frequently.

Reduce the heat to medium, then add the garlic, chilli (if using), milk, and nutmeg. Cook until the milk has fully evaporated, stirring regularly.

Stir in all the tomato passata. Once the ragù begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low and cook uncovered for 4–5 hours. Stir often and do not let it burn. As the ragù thickens, add more stock, as needed to maintain a rich, slow-simmering consistency.

Once cooked, bottle the ragù, seal, and pasteurise.

Storage & Yield

The great advantage of this method is longevity : the bottled ragù can be stored in the pantry for a very long time and provides an exceptional, ready-to-use meal at any time.

This batch yielded approximately 50–60 meal portions. For a family-sized version, simply divide all quantities by ten.

If quail is not available, a combination of beef and pork makes an excellent alternative.

Pasta al Ragù di Quaglia

While the pasta cooks in ample salted water – fresh pappardelle is my preference – open a bottle of ragù and transfer it to a pan large enough to accommodate both the pasta and sauce.

Gently heat the ragù. Drain the pasta while it is just shy of al dente and add it directly to the pan. Toss the pasta and ragù together over low heat until fully cooked, stirring and lifting constantly (Mantecare).

If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little stock, or some of the salted boiling pasta water. Finish with fresh basil, give it one final toss, and serve immediately topped with ample grated Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese.

Pasta al Ragù di Quaglia should be served piping hot – and enjoyed without haste.

Do not forget the bottle of home made red wine to finish it all !

CALAMARI RIPIENI (Stuffed Squid)

We got our hands on probably the best squid we have ever had. Fresh, large, tasting of the sea. We immediately started discussing our many options, determined to make the most of it.  The recipe we settled on was a tender, flavourful dish of squid. I cleaned as much as we need and froze the rest. After making a tender and tasty squid  with wine and spinach, Mrs BYF decided to put stuffed squid on the menu for lunch.

To serve six, or two with some very nice leftovers for the rest of the week 

6  whole Squid cleaned, tentacles and fins cut off leaving the sac intact

4  tablespoons extra-virgin Olive Oil

4  Garlic cloves or more

2  tablespoons chopped Italian Parsley 

140g fresh Tomatoes.

Salt to taste

chopped Chilli or chilli flakes to taste

1 Egg yolk

15g dry Bread crumbs. White bread unflavoured.

170g thinly sliced brown Onion 

100ml dry white Wine

Toothpicks the large strong ones

Method

Chop up the fins and tentacles

To make the stuffing, cook the garlic in the 1 1/2 tablespoons of oil until slightly coloured. Add the parsley and stir a few times before adding the tentacles and fins, cook for a few minutes stirring well. Add the tomatoes and let the stuffing simmer for  about 30 minutes until the tomatoes are dense and have lost the waterlines.  When done, transfer the stuffing to a bowl and let it cool completely. Add the egg and the breadcrumbs and mix well. Mrs BYF was using quail eggs and could not be bothered to seperate the whites from the yolks. The result was still very good. 

While the tomato mix cooks, cook the chopped onion in 11/2  tablespoons of oil until golden. Meanwhile divide the stuffing in to 6 equal portions and stuff the squid sacs, secure the openings with the toothpick.

Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the onion and turn up the heat, cook the squid turning it until all the sides of the sacs are golden brown. Add the white wine, let it bubble away completely, put the lid on the pan and turn the heat to a very gentle simmer for 45 minutes. Add a bit of water only when there is a danger of the squid sticking to the pan. When tender, slice the sacs in to 1 or 2 cm thick slices. Return to the pan and dribble whatever juices there are over the slices. Serve immediately.

The entire process was worth while because the end result was delicious! 

ENJOY and do not forget a glass of good home made red wine