ESSENTIAL QUAIL HOUSING

A Complete Guide to Coturnix Quail Enclosure Design, Welfare and Management

Good housing is the foundation of successful quail keeping

Coturnix quails are small, efficient and remarkably productive birds
They can produce large numbers of eggs and meat from relatively little space and feed
However, their small size and particular behaviour also make them vulnerable to problems that are often overlooked by people who are accustomed to keeping chickens

Quails are highly responsive to disturbance, vulnerable to predators, sensitive to damp and poorly ventilated conditions, and capable of injuring themselves when suddenly frightened

For these reasons, good housing is not simply a matter of giving quails somewhere to live — it is an essential part of their health, welfare, productivity and safety

Over many years of keeping and breeding Coturnix coturnix, I have found that a well-designed enclosure can make an enormous difference
Good housing reduces stress, makes cleaning and observation easier, protects the birds from predators and weather, and allows them to behave naturally

It also makes the keeper’s job considerably easier

---

1 – DESIGN THE HOUSING AROUND THE QUAIL

The first mistake many people make is designing a cage around the materials they happen to have available

Quail housing should instead be designed around the natural behaviour and needs of the bird

Coturnix quails are primarily ground-dwelling birds
They spend much of their time walking, feeding, dust-bathing, resting and searching through their environment rather than perching like chickens

A good enclosure should therefore provide:

• Adequate floor space
• Dry conditions
• Protection from rain and wind
• Good ventilation
• Protection from predators
• Shade and shelter
• Places to hide
• Access to food and clean water
• An area for dust bathing
• Easy access for cleaning and inspection

The best housing is not necessarily the most expensive or elaborate

It is the housing that meets the needs of the birds while making good husbandry easy for the keeper

---

2 – KEEP THE QUAILS DRY

If there is one principle that should never be compromised, it is this:

KEEP THE HOUSING DRY

Quails generally tolerate cold much better than they tolerate being cold, wet and exposed

The roof should be completely waterproof and should extend sufficiently beyond the walls to prevent rain from entering the enclosure
An overhang of around 200 mm or more is useful, particularly where the enclosure is exposed to prevailing winds and driving rain

The floor and bedding should remain dry

Wet bedding rapidly becomes contaminated with droppings and spilled feed
It can produce unpleasant odours, increase ammonia and create an environment in which microorganisms can multiply

The enclosure should therefore be designed so that:

• Rain cannot enter easily
• Water cannot collect inside
• Ground water cannot seep into the enclosure
• Wet bedding can be removed easily
• Drinkers cannot continually wet the floor
• There is adequate drainage around the building

A dry quail house is considerably easier to keep clean and healthy

---

3 – PROTECT THE BIRDS FROM WIND — BUT PROVIDE FRESH AIR

There is an important difference between ventilation and draughts

Quails need fresh air
Stale, humid air containing dust and ammonia is unhealthy, particularly in enclosed housing

At the same time, birds should not be exposed to strong cold draughts

A useful arrangement is to have one or two solid walls providing protection from the prevailing wind, while the remaining sides incorporate secure wire mesh to provide natural ventilation

The objective is:

Fresh air in — stale air out — no strong draught directly across the birds

Good ventilation helps remove:

• Excess humidity
• Ammonia
• Dust
• Feather and skin particles
• Heat
• Unpleasant odours

This becomes increasingly important as the number of birds increases

---

4 – PREDATOR PROTECTION IS ESSENTIAL

A quail enclosure may look secure to us while being completely inadequate against predators

Cats, rats, stoats, weasels and other predators can represent a serious threat

A cat, for example, does not necessarily need to enter the enclosure to injure a quail
If the mesh openings are too large, it may be able to reach through with its paw

For this reason, I recommend strong steel wire mesh with openings of approximately 13 mm × 13 mm or smaller for vulnerable areas

The important point is that the mesh must be:

• Strong
• Securely attached
• Small enough to prevent predators reaching through
• Resistant to rodents chewing or enlarging openings

Do not rely on flimsy plastic netting or weak temporary fencing as the primary protection for a permanent quail enclosure

The doors and gates also need to be properly secured

A predator-proof enclosure is not optional — it is part of responsible quail keeping

---

5 – ENCLOSURE HEIGHT AND THE QUAIL’S FLUSH-FLIGHT RESPONSE

Coturnix quails have a powerful natural startle response

When frightened, a quail may suddenly launch itself almost vertically into the air
This is known as a flush flight

The problem occurs when a startled bird has sufficient vertical distance to accelerate before striking a hard roof

A high cage can therefore create a risk of serious injury

For this reason, I favour relatively low enclosures, generally around 500 mm or less, particularly where the roof is rigid

However, height should not be considered in isolation
Roof construction, available floor area, bird temperament and the amount of disturbance all influence the risk

A very low enclosure must still allow the keeper to inspect and manage the birds properly

A useful principle is:

Provide plenty of horizontal space rather than unnecessary vertical space

A spacious, low enclosure is generally more appropriate for Coturnix quail than a tall, narrow cage

---

6 – FLOORING — DRY, SAFE AND EASY TO MANAGE

Flooring is one of the most misunderstood aspects of quail housing

Coturnix quails spend most of their lives on the floor, so the surface beneath their feet is extremely important

The priority is not necessarily whether the floor is made from soil, timber, concrete or another material
The priority is that it should be:

dry, safe, comfortable, cleanable and properly managed

Natural ground can work very well when the site is dry and properly managed
It provides an opportunity for natural scratching and dust bathing

However, natural ground can also become wet, muddy and contaminated with faeces and parasites
For this reason, it is not automatically the best solution in every situation

A solid floor covered with suitable dry bedding can also provide an excellent environment and may be easier to clean and disinfect

What I would avoid is an unsuitable wire floor

Continuous exposure to poorly designed wire flooring can cause foot and leg problems and does not allow the birds to express normal ground-based behaviour

If wire flooring is used for a particular management system, it needs to be designed specifically to minimise foot problems and maintain good hygiene

For a backyard or small-scale breeding operation, however, I strongly prefer a well-managed solid or natural floor with dry bedding

MOVABLE QUAIL HOUSING

One of the advantages of a relatively small, well-designed quail enclosure is that it can be made movable

This is the system I personally prefer

Being able to move the enclosure to a clean, dry area of ground has several advantages

The birds are not continually occupying the same contaminated area, fresh ground can be made available, and wet or heavily soiled areas can be left to dry and recover

Moving the enclosure also makes it easier to maintain good hygiene without relying entirely on constant cleaning of a permanently occupied site

The ability to move the birds onto fresh, dry ground is particularly valuable after periods of wet weather

There is also another useful benefit to moving quail housing

Once the birds have been moved to fresh ground, the area they have occupied can be left to rest before being incorporated into the garden

The quail droppings, bedding and other organic material left behind can add valuable nutrients and organic matter to the soil, making the area particularly useful for a subsequent crop of vegetables

In a well-managed backyard system, the quails therefore become part of a natural nutrient cycle — feed goes into the birds, the birds produce eggs and manure, and the manure can eventually go back into the garden to help grow the next crop

A movable enclosure therefore provides not only flexibility, but another useful tool for maintaining a healthy environment for the birds while making better use of the valuable nutrients produced by the flock

---

7 – GIVE THE QUAILS AN OPPORTUNITY TO DUST-BATHE

Dust bathing is normal and important quail behaviour

A quail will instinctively scratch, crouch and work dry material through its feathers

Providing a dry dust-bathing area allows the birds to express this natural behaviour and helps them maintain their plumage

A dust bath can be created using a suitable dry, clean material such as fine sand or another appropriate dust-bathing substrate

The material must remain dry and should be replaced when heavily contaminated

I do not recommend routinely adding large quantities of fine powders simply because they are advertised as improving feather condition
Anything that creates additional airborne dust can be undesirable in an enclosed quail environment

The simpler approach is often the best:

Provide a clean, dry dust-bathing area and allow the birds to do what comes naturally

---

8 – SPACE — AVOID OVERCROWDING

Quails may be small, but that does not mean they should be crowded into tiny cages

Overcrowding increases competition for food, water and resting areas and can increase stress, aggression and feather pecking

It also makes it much harder to maintain good hygiene and observe individual birds

As a practical guide for breeding groups, I prefer to provide at least about 2 m² of usable floor space for a small breeding group, with more space being preferable where circumstances allow

The exact requirement depends on:

• Number of birds
• Male-to-female ratio
• Enclosure design
• Shelter available
• Environmental enrichment
• Breed and temperament
• How long the birds remain together

There is no single number that magically makes a stocking density appropriate

More space is nearly always an advantage

---

9 – PROVIDE HIDING PLACES AND VISUAL BARRIERS

One of the easiest ways to improve a quail enclosure is to provide places where birds can get out of sight

Quails are naturally cautious prey animals
They feel safer when they can retreat into cover

This can be achieved with:

• Dense vegetation
• Straw
• Wooden screens
• Small shelters
• Low branches
• Boxes with suitable openings
• Other safe visual barriers

These structures have another important benefit

If one bird is being harassed by another, a visual barrier can allow the subordinate bird to move away and escape direct attention

A completely open enclosure gives a bullied bird nowhere to go

Good quail housing should provide both open space and protected spaces

---

10 – SHADE IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS SUNLIGHT

Natural daylight is beneficial, but quails should never be forced to remain in direct sunlight throughout the day

The enclosure should provide shaded areas where birds can retreat during hot weather

Shade can be provided by:

• The roof
• Shade cloth
• Vegetation
• Shelters
• Solid sections of wall

Ideally, the birds should have a choice between sun and shade

This is particularly important during summer when an enclosed cage can heat up very quickly

---

11 – FOOD AND WATER — MAKE ACCESS EASY

Fresh, clean water must be available at all times

Feed should also be readily accessible

Drinkers should be designed and positioned to minimise:

• Contamination with droppings
• Spillage
• Wet bedding
• Algae growth
• Competition between birds

Feeders should similarly be positioned so that all birds can eat comfortably without excessive competition

Good housing and good feeding management go together

There is little value in providing excellent feed if the birds are continually stressed, wet or unable to access it comfortably

---

12 – LIGHTING AND EGG PRODUCTION

Coturnix quails are strongly influenced by day length

As natural daylight decreases during autumn and winter, egg production can decline
Birds may also enter a moult as part of their natural seasonal cycle

For those keeping quails primarily for egg production, supplemental lighting can be used to maintain a more consistent laying pattern

A total day length of approximately 14–16 hours of light is commonly used for laying quails

Lighting should be introduced gradually and managed with a timer rather than relying on lights being switched on and off unpredictably

More light is not necessarily better

The birds still require a proper period of darkness for normal rest and behaviour

---

13 – DESIGN THE ENCLOSURE SO YOU CAN SEE EVERY BIRD

One of the most important principles of animal husbandry is:

OBSERVATION

An experienced keeper can often recognise that something is wrong with a bird simply by watching it

Is it:

• Eating?
• Drinking?
• Walking normally?
• Sitting apart from the group?
• Being bullied?
• Fluffed up?
• Limping?
• Losing feathers?
• Behaving differently from the other birds?

The earlier a problem is noticed, the easier it is generally to deal with

For this reason, I prefer housing with good visibility and unobstructed sightlines

You should be able to look into the enclosure and quickly assess the condition of the flock

The old saying:

“The eye of the master fattens the sheep”

applies equally well to quails

Good housing should make observation easy, not hide the birds from you

---

14 – MAKE CLEANING EASY

This is another area where good design pays dividends

Before constructing a quail enclosure, think about how you are going to clean it

Ask yourself:

• Can I easily reach every corner?
• Can I remove dirty bedding?
• Can I clean the drinkers?
• Can I inspect the birds?
• Can I remove wet areas?
• Can I collect eggs easily?
• Can I access the enclosure without disturbing the entire flock?

If cleaning is difficult, it will eventually become a chore that gets postponed

And when cleaning is postponed, hygiene deteriorates

Movable housing has an additional advantage here because the birds can be moved onto fresh ground while the previously occupied area is allowed to dry and recover

Design the housing so that good husbandry is the easiest option

---

15 – HOUSING AND RESPIRATORY HEALTH

Quails produce a surprising amount of dust

Feathers, skin particles, bedding material, feed particles and droppings can all contribute to airborne dust

This is one reason why ventilation is so important

Poor ventilation combined with high stocking density can result in an unpleasant environment containing excessive humidity, ammonia and airborne particles

The answer is not simply to create a powerful draught

Instead, aim for continuous, gentle air exchange

In larger indoor or semi-enclosed operations, mechanical extraction and air filtration can also be useful, provided they are designed so that they do not create excessive cold air movement across the birds

---

16 – HOUSING, STRESS AND PRODUCTIVITY

A quail may survive in poor housing

That does not mean it will thrive

Constant disturbance, overcrowding, predator pressure, excessive heat, dampness, cold draughts and lack of shelter all create unnecessary stress

Stress can affect normal feeding, behaviour, feather condition, fertility and egg production

This is particularly important with breeding birds

If you have invested years selecting your quails for good genetics, temperament, growth, egg production and efficiency, it makes little sense to compromise their performance by keeping them in poor housing

Good genetics require good management to reach their potential

---

17 – NUTRITION AND HOUSING WORK TOGETHER

Housing alone cannot produce healthy quails

The birds also require an appropriate, balanced diet

Coturnix quails have relatively high nutritional requirements, particularly during rapid growth and egg production

I strongly prefer feeding a complete, balanced quail ration appropriate to the bird’s stage of life, rather than relying on generic poultry feeds and attempting to balance the diet by adding a collection of supplements

At Back Yard Farmer, I use different feeds for different stages:

BYF 28% Quail Starter

For chicks from hatching to approximately 21 days

BYF 26% Quail Grower

For growing birds from approximately 22 to 50 days

BYF 24% Mature Quail Feed

For mature birds over 50 days that are not actively laying

BYF 22% Quail Layer Feed

For mature hens actively producing eggs

The principle is simple:

**Good housing protects the bird

Good nutrition feeds the bird
Good genetics determine what the bird is capable of achieving**

All three are important

---

18 – DON’T DILUTE A COMPLETE DIET WITH TOO MANY EXTRAS

Quails enjoy greens, insects, scraps and many other foods

There is nothing wrong with giving suitable treats in moderation, but excessive quantities can dilute the nutrients supplied by a properly formulated complete feed

The more additional foods that are offered, the less predictable the overall nutrient intake becomes

For productive breeding and laying birds, the complete feed should remain the foundation of the diet

Fresh water should always be available

---

19 – GOOD HOUSING SHOULD REDUCE RISK

When designing housing, I recommend thinking about every potential problem before it happens

Rain

Risk: Wet birds and bedding
Solution: Waterproof roof, adequate overhang and good drainage

Wind

Risk: Cold draughts and stress
Solution: Solid windward walls with controlled ventilation

Predators

Risk: Injury or death
Solution: Strong small-aperture steel mesh and secure doors

Flush flight

Risk: Head and neck injuries
Solution: Avoid unnecessarily tall enclosures and minimise sudden disturbances

Overcrowding

Risk: Aggression, stress and poor hygiene
Solution: Adequate floor space and appropriate group sizes

Bullying

Risk: Injured or stressed subordinate birds
Solution: Hiding places and visual barriers

Heat

Risk: Heat stress
Solution: Shade, ventilation and access to cool areas

Dust and ammonia

Risk: Poor air quality and respiratory irritation
Solution: Dry bedding, sensible stocking density and effective ventilation

Poor observation

Risk: Problems go unnoticed
Solution: Good visibility and easy access to every bird

Ground contamination

Risk: Repeated exposure to wet or heavily contaminated areas
Solution: Good hygiene management and, where practical, movable housing

---

20 – THE IDEAL COTURNIX QUAIL ENCLOSURE

There is no single perfect design for every situation

An enclosure in a cold, wet part of New Zealand will need somewhat different protection from one in a hot, dry climate

Likewise, housing for five breeding birds is different from housing for several hundred birds

Nevertheless, the basic principles remain remarkably consistent

A good Coturnix enclosure should provide:

Requirement	What Good Housing Provides
Weather protection	Waterproof roof and protection from driving rain
Ventilation	Continuous fresh-air exchange without strong draughts
Predator protection	Strong steel mesh with appropriately small openings
Height	Relatively low enclosure to reduce flush-flight injury risk
Floor	Dry, safe, comfortable and manageable surface
Space	Adequate usable floor area without overcrowding
Shelter	Places where birds can retreat and hide
Shade	Protection from direct sun and excessive heat
Dust bathing	Clean, dry area for normal behaviour
Food & water	Clean and continuously accessible
Observation	Clear view of all birds
Cleaning	Easy access and removal of dirty material
Mobility	Ability, where practical, to move birds onto fresh, clean and dry ground
Lighting	Appropriate day length with a period of darkness
Management	Easy access for feeding, egg collection and inspection

---

21 – THE THREE FOUNDATIONS OF SUCCESSFUL QUAIL KEEPING

After many years of keeping and breeding Coturnix quails, I believe successful quail keeping can be reduced to three fundamental requirements

1 GOOD GENETICS

Start with healthy birds selected for the characteristics you actually want

2 GOOD NUTRITION

Provide a complete and properly balanced diet appropriate for the age and purpose of the bird

3 GOOD HOUSING

Provide a dry, secure, well-ventilated, predator-proof environment with adequate space, shelter and opportunities for normal behaviour

If any one of these is seriously deficient, the other two cannot completely compensate

---

MY GOLDEN RULES FOR QUAIL HOUSING

If you are building or improving a quail enclosure, remember these simple rules:

KEEP IT DRY

PROTECT IT FROM WIND AND DRIVING RAIN

PROVIDE GOOD VENTILATION WITHOUT STRONG DRAUGHTS

KEEP PREDATORS OUT

PROVIDE ADEQUATE FLOOR SPACE

DON’T MAKE THE ENCLOSURE UNNECESSARILY TALL

GIVE THE BIRDS PLACES TO HIDE

PROVIDE SHADE AS WELL AS DAYLIGHT

ALLOW NATURAL DUST-BATHING BEHAVIOUR

KEEP FOOD AND WATER CLEAN

MAKE CLEANING EASY

MAKE EVERY BIRD EASY TO OBSERVE

WHERE PRACTICAL, MOVE THE HOUSING TO FRESH, CLEAN AND DRY GROUND

And finally:

DESIGN THE HOUSING FOR THE QUAIL — NOT FOR THE CONVENIENCE OF THE PERSON SELLING THE CAGE

A quail does not care whether its enclosure is expensive, fashionable or beautifully constructed

It needs somewhere that is dry, safe, secure, comfortable and suitable for its natural behaviour

Get the housing right, provide proper nutrition and start with good-quality birds, and quail keeping becomes considerably easier — for both the birds and their keeper

Good housing isn’t an accessory to quail farming

GOOD HOUSING IS THE FOUNDATION OF IT

Feature	Substandard Setup	Recommended Design
Flooring	Wire mesh or solid artificial floors (Absolute NO – causes foot damage).	Dry natural ground (Enables natural dust baths & prevents foot injury).
Enclosure Wire	Hardware cloth, fabric mesh, or standard chicken wire.	13 mm × 13 mm solid steel wire mesh (Blocks claws & rodent entry).
Roof Height	Over 500 mm high (Causes severe head trauma during flush-flights).	Max 500 mm height (Prevents dangerous upward flight velocity).
Space & Cover	Overcrowded without hides (Leads to aggressive pecking and stress).	2 m² per group (1M:4F) with thick cover and shelter nooks.
Nutrition	Generic chicken/gamebird grower rations.	BYF 22% Quail Layers Feed (100% balanced for laying hens).